Tradition, excellence, high quality and research into materials: values which have always been at the very heart of Buccellati. It is a company founded by a Milanese family of jewelers of the same name. A company which has preserved its stylistic identity for over a hundred years, while reviving and applying ancient goldsmithing techniques.
From Mario’s first masterpieces to Andrea’s sophisticated pièces uniques, to Gianmaria’s sumptuous creations, the Buccellati family has “reinvented” these traditions, using creativity and originality to bring about technique, material, shape and typology-based innovations.
In this way, engraving, openwork and chaining became part both of a creative process in progress, and of ongoing experimentation and improvement. For over a century, these have gone towards the conception of unique, never-to-be-repeated pieces, featuring original, exclusive motifs. Know-how and creativity: a combination that has made the Buccellati style famous and unequalled all over the world.
As Gianmaria Buccellati noted: “I make a design so that a craftsperson can make it; it is the heart of the creation.”
Buccellati masterpieces are born from a collaboration between creatives and their skilled craftspeople, who, for generations, have been working alongside the Buccellati, with each one taking care of a particular stage of the production process. Their jewelry and their precious objects are born from their hands. Hands that think, design and create.
The hands of the Buccellati and their craftspeople combine artisan passion with Italian creativity. With their gestures, these hands honor the memory of the master goldsmiths who came before them, while forging a path for those who will come.
Main Techniques
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Engraving Techniques
Rigato
Rigato is a form of engraving consisting of many fine lines parallel to one another, which creates a silky sheen reminiscent of textile textures. The rigato effect is a key feature of the Macri collection, one of the brand’s iconic lines.
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Segrinato
Segrinato is a tightly woven engraving style. It is a dense weave engraving calling for elaborate workmanship. The texture was produced by engraving crossed, overlapping and multidirectional dots. The segrinato effect achieves a delicate and light luminosity, reminiscent of velvet. Many of Gianmaria Buccellati’s naturalistic creations depicting peonies, begonias and anemones were made using this particular technique.
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Telato
The telato effect is achieved by engraving cross-hatched lines which intersect at right angles, to create an effect that is very similar to the texture of linen and canvas.
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Ornato
Ornato is an ornamental motif echoing the golden patterns of rich brocades, damasks and lace, which were extremely valuable Renaissance luxuries and symbols of European courtly prestige.
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Modellato
Modellato is the most complex engraving technique whereby ornamental shapes are reproduced to create a three-dimensional effect in high relief. It is often used in naturalistic-themed designs containing leaves and flowers. Mario Buccellati used modellato to pay homage to the great goldsmith sculptors of the Renaissance period.
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Tulle
Tulle or “honeycombing” is a particular openwork technique, responsible for making Mario Buccellati famous and recognized across the globe. Similar to the fabric of the same name, this precious technique involves piercing the sheet with a hacksaw until a network of tiny polygonal holes is created. This network can be enriched with applications in gold or precious stones. In order to obtain perfection and regularity of the design, each cell needs to be reworked with a handsaw at least five times. It is a complex, labor-intensive process, requiring a great deal of skill and an extreme level precision in its execution.
Enchaining
Chaining is the union of compositional elements which are chained together on the rear of the jewel using small links, in order to obtain maximum flexibility. This technique allowed Mario to create his famous gold-lined silver bracelets.
Lace
Mario Buccellati was inspired by Venetian embroideries made with Burano needles, transposing their patterns using a complex piercing technique. Spaces in the form of geometrical or leaf shapes with incisions and gems are reminiscent of lace embroideries.
TWISTED THREAD
Filo ritorto (or “twisted thread”) is a complex working technique, whereby a special tool is used to extrude gold, transforming it into a fine thread which is then twisted back upon itself.
